Alcalá del Júcar is a Conjunto histórico (Historic-Artistic Site) and officially one of the most beautiful villages in Spain.
It sits within a gorge cut by the Júcar River through steep limestone cliffs in the province of Albacete. The whitewashed houses appear to cling to the rock face. Natural caves are abundant, some of which have been turned into inns.
The 'hotel' for this leg was a traditional family home carved out of the hillside with a stunning view of the valley below. The cave was upgraded into 5* lodgings by the son of the original owners. If you arrive by motorbike he will guide you through the narrow streets to the top of the town and you can park outside the cave.
Hotel superb (Casa túnel Nido de Águilas). Best eats - Meson Fogones el Chato (good regional food and wine). Best drinks - Bar La Hondonera (an essential pit stop before walking up to the village). Best sights - the castle and village from the riverside at night.
180 miles from Toledo. 5 hours riding through twisty-turny mountain roads with stops to cool, hydrate and gawp at the scenery. Rookie errors - helmet and gloves are starting to feel tight in the heat.